Build a Basic Cabinet, Part 1

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Building a custom base cabinet can be one of the most rewarding projects for a DIYer or woodworker because it combines essential utility with foundational craftsmanship. Unlike mass-produced, “flat-pack” furniture that often relies on flimsy particle board and plastic hardware, building your own allows you to control the quality of materials—opting for sturdy plywood and hardwoods that can withstand decades of use. Beyond the superior durability, custom construction offers the freedom to tailor dimensions to your specific space, maximizing storage in awkward corners, or matching the exact height of existing cabinets. Ultimately, mastering the base cabinet serves as a “rite of passage” in the shop; the techniques you learn, such as squaring a box, using pocket-hole joinery, and milling a face frame, provide the essential blueprint for building almost anything else in a home, from kitchen islands to professional-grade built-ins.

This tutorial, created by Matt Whiteis of MT Trim Co., focuses on constructing a Shaker-style face frame cabinet using pocket-hole joinery and UV-prefinished maple.

Overview and Preparation

Matt uses one-sided prefinished maple ¾” plywood for the cabinet box, with the finished face on the interior for ease of cleaning and durability, and poplar for the face frame. A key feature of this design is the built-in toe kick, which creates a seamless “standalone” look rather than a separate base.

1. Breaking Down the Materials

The entire cabinet box is efficiently cut from a single 4×8 sheet of plywood.

  • The Bottom & Sides: The bottom piece is ripped to 28-1/2 inches. The two side panels are cut to 35-1/4 inches tall by 20-1/4 inches deep.
  • The Toe Kick & Cleats: The toe kick is ripped to 5 inches tall. Additional support cleats are cut at 28-1/2 inches wide by 3 inches to serve as back supports and top rails for the face frame.
  • The Shelf: A crosscut is made for an adjustable shelf, though its final installation is reserved for a later video (How to Build a Basic Cabinet, Part 2: Doors and Drawers).

2. Pocket Hole Joinery

Matt uses quick and secure pocket-hole joinery for most of the assembly, strategically placing holes to ensure they are hidden or easily filled.

  • Bottom Piece: Six pocket holes are drilled into the unfinished side of the bottom panel to secure it to the side walls.
  • Side Panels: Pocket holes are placed on the finished side of the exterior panels because the outside will eventually be painted, while the interior remains the “pretty” prefinished maple.
  • Supports: The top and back cleats receive pocket holes on their ends to attach to the sides. The front top support is oriented horizontally with pocket holes facing outward to eventually grab the face frame.

3. Assembling the Cabinet Box

Before the main assembly, Matt marks the interior sides for the toe kick and the shelf pins.

  • Shelf Pins: Using a jig, he drills adjustable shelf pin holes centered at 14 inches on both side panels.
  • Toe Kick & Base: Lines are drawn at 5 inches from the bottom. The toe kick is glued and screwed into place, followed by the bottom panel, which is “butted up” against the toe kick.
  • “Wings”: Small 45-degree “wings” (5″ x 3-5/8″) are cut and nailed into the interior corners of the toe kick for added structural support and a finished look.
  • The Skeleton: The back and top cleats are installed. Matt notes that there is no plywood “top” to the cabinet, as it is designed to receive a granite or specialty countertop later.

4. Constructing and Attaching the Face Frame

The face frame is made of poplar, milled on the table saw to be slightly wider (2-1/8 inches) than the final dimension to allow for final planing.

  • Milling: He planes the pieces down to remove a 16th of an inch from each edge for a perfectly smooth finish.
  • Joinery: The rails (horizontal) and stiles (vertical) are joined with glue and pocket screws. A single screw is used for the smaller 1-1/2-inch drawer divider to prevent splitting.
  • Installation: Matt attaches the completed frame to the box using glue and brad nails. He uses the face frame itself to help square up the entire cabinet box before driving the final screws.

5. Finishing Touches

The final stage involves “breaking the edges” to relieve sharp edges and prepping for paint.

  • Sanding: He uses 120-grit sandpaper to smooth the poplar face frame and the maple edges.
  • Aesthetics: Because the cabinet is a standalone unit, he avoids the traditional side-notch toe kick, opting for a flush look that appears more “presentable.”

Watch Part 2 in this series, How to Build a Basic Cabinet: Doors and Drawers: