A Living Room Table With Multiple Functions

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In the world of custom woodworking, the “C-shaped” side table has become a modern staple for its versatility and minimalist aesthetic. In this detailed tutorial from Natalie Park (Park Place Abode) exclusively for SawStop, we are guided through the process of creating a beautiful, narrow side table using solid white oak. What makes this project particularly impressive is the total absence of hardware; the entire structure relies on traditional mortise and tenon joinery.

Here is a comprehensive summary of the build process, from raw lumber to the finished hard-wax oil glow.

1. Material Preparation and Milling

The project begins with solid white oak boards. Because the wood was S3S (surfaced on three sides), one edge remained rough and required squaring.

  • Initial Cuts: The boards are first cut to a length slightly longer than the final dimensions using a mitersaw.
  • Ripping the Edges: To remove the rough edge and rip to final width, the boards are run through a table saw.
  • The “Double-Faced Tape” Jointer Hack: Since Natalie doesn’t have a dedicated jointer, she tapes pairs of boards together with double-faced tape and ripping them on the table saw simultaneously, with the blade cutting a sliver off both pieces at once. This ensures that even if the cut isn’t perfectly 90 degrees, the two edges will mirror each other for a gap-free glue-up.

2. Glue-Up and Dimensioning

With the edges perfectly matched, the pieces are ready to be joined into the three main components of the table: the top, the vertical support, and the base.

  • Assembly: Glue and clamp the wood together for each part.
  • Cleaning the Squeeze-Out: Rather than wiping wet glue, Natalie allows it to sit for 30–45 minutes until tacky, making it easier to scrape off cleanly without staining the wood fibers.
  • Sanding: Once dry, the panels are sanded through a progression of 80, 120, and 150 grit using an orbital sander to ensure a smooth surface for the joinery phase.

3. Creating the Mortises

The mortise is the hole or slot that receives the tenon (the protruding tongue).

  • Layout: The top and bottom pieces are 9 inches wide, while the middle vertical support is intentionally narrower at 8 inches for a sleek design profile. The mortise locations are marked 5 inches from the edge, spanning 7 inches in length.
  • The Routing Process: Using a plunge router and a straight bit, Natalie makes shallow 1/8-inch passes to clear the material.
    • Blind vs. Through Mortise: The bottom mortise is cut to a 1/2-inch depth (a “blind” mortise) so the joint is hidden from the underside. The top mortise is cut all the way through the board, allowing the end grain of the tenon to be visible on the tabletop, serving as a distinct design feature.

4. Shaping the Top and Base

To soften the look of the table, Natalie cuts the top and base into an oval shape.

  • Circle Jig: A circle jig attached to the router is used to cut perfect semicircles on the ends of the top and base.
  • Refining the Curves: After the router established the path, she uses a jigsaw to remove the bulk of the waste, followed by a flush-trim bit to clean the edges smooth.

5. Cutting and Fitting the Tenons

The tenons are cut on the ends of the middle vertical board to match the depths of the previously cut mortises.

  • Table Saw Method: Rather than using a dado stack, the builder uses a standard blade and a miter gauge, making multiple passes to shave away the cheeks of the tenon.
  • Fine-Tuning: The tenons are intentionally left slightly thick and then hand-sanded for a snug fit.
  • Squaring the Round: Because a router creates rounded corners in a mortise, Natalie rounds the square corners of the tenons to match the radius of the mortise.

6. Final Edge Treatments and Assembly

Before the final glue-up, all edges receive a routed round-over to give the table a soft, organic feel.

  • Roundover Bit: A 1/2-inch roundover bit is used in a router table. A starting pin was utilized for the top and base to ensure safety and control during routing.
  • The Glue-Up: She applies glue to the mortise and tenon surfaces, then uses a rubber mallet to seat the joints firmly. Corner clamps ensure the vertical support remains at a perfect 90-degree angle to the base while drying.

7. Finishing Touches

The project concludes with a high-end finish to highlight the natural beauty of the white oak.

  • Hard Wax Oil: After a final light sand, a hard wax oil gets buffed into the wood with a non-abrasive pad. This finish provides a durable, satin look that feels natural to the touch.

Final Results

The resulting C-shaped table is as functional as it is beautiful. Because of its “C” profile, the base can slide underneath a couch or chair, allowing the top to hover over the armrest—perfect for a laptop, tablet, or a morning cup of coffee. By using white oak and traditional joinery, this project demonstrates how simple materials and classic techniques can produce a piece of furniture that is both modern and timeless.